Author FOF

Author FOF

Hiking and Biking the Fakahatchee

by Anthony (Tony) Marx

Note: this article was written by the author in  2015 and updated by the Friends of Fakahatchee in 2022. For current trail conditions call the Fakahatchee park office at 239-961-1925.

In my December 2014 Ghost Writer article I described off road ‘mountain’ biking in the Fakahatchee State Park and this will serve to acquaint visitors with what they can expect to find either hiking or biking the trails kept open for public use.

There were once 200 miles of rail tracks laid within what now comprises the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park which gradually fell into disuse by the late 1950’s when logging ended and the property was sold to developers. The rails and ties were removed although some of the latter can still be seen laying where they were discarded alongside Janes Scenic Drive (JSD). Even the Drive itself was a railroad to which were connected the main arteries and served the interior shorter branch tracks feeding into it from north and south.

Ballard Camp, viewed from the north side, is on East Main.

Ballard Camp, viewed from the north side, is on East Main.

The Developers scammed people into buying small building lots, as happened in the adjoining Picayune State Forest although not on such a large scale, and some remain hidden in the forest today, referred to as ‘in holdings’. Permanent occupation is not feasible simply because building is not permitted and an in-holder’s camp may simply consist of a bare patch of land partially flooded in summer or an old crumbling shack left over from the 1970’s when the land was acquired by the State of Florida and designated a Park and Preserve – the largest in Florida. Believe it or not, there are still almost 1000 such lots scattered throughout the Park with most hidden away in the depths of the swamp.

The 200 miles of trails have almost all disappeared, reclaimed by Mother Nature. Park Staff assisted by volunteers with the Friends of the Fakahatchee manage to keep open what remains.  Mentioned below are trails that can be cycled or hiked.

biking_pt2_map1Janes Scenic Drive (JSD)

This main road bisecting the Park is accessed only from State Road 29 at Copeland. JSD paving ends just past the Park Ranger Station. JSD continues N.W. for 12 miles however it is gated at the 6 mile point where visitors will find ample parking and can continue on JSD to hike or cycle. JSD is a narrow, bumpy dirt road running through the heart of the Swamp forest, with several places where you can park to hike or bike. Of course, lock your vehicles and stow valuables out of sight.

The following trails are all double track with grass between. They meander through tall pristine forest and luxurious understory festooned with ferns and bromeliads. Wildlife encounters of all kinds happen on a regular basis, so keep your camera handy.

West Main Hiking Trail Gate #7

The gated entrance to the trail is approx. three miles from the start of JSD, a kiosk with information is at the entrance of the trail. A double track ends at a small open prairie 3 miles from the trail head. At this point you have two options. The first option is to backtrack to the trail head after a mildly strenuous ride at about 7 mph. The second, more strenuous option continues north across the grassy prairie and connects with Mud Tram trail (see dotted line on the map). Side trails make a compass or GPS mandatory, as the trail is not marked.

East Main Hiking Trail Gate # 12

This is the main hiking trail with ample parking, located on the right of JSD approx. 6-1/2 miles from the start. The first 2-1/2 miles are easy double track and bring you to an in-holding known as ‘Ballard Camp.’ This privately-owned corrugated iron cabin was  once a logging supervisor’s cabin and is kept in good shape by its owners. They kindly allow visitors to rest on the front porch, but please respect their privacy if they are present – accompanied by their vehicle parked nearby. They maintain a jetty running from the back of the cabin to a lake which is always busy with alligators large and small.

Bear right past the cabin and the trail continues for another half mile to eventually become impassible. The trees here are heavily festooned with bromeliads.

Tony Marx is a Florida Master Naturalist and former FOF Board Member.

Biking The Fakahatchee

by Anthony (Tony) Marx

marx_on_east_main

The author on the northern end of East Main Trail.

For current trail conditions call the Fakahatchee park office 239-961-1925

I usually refer to biking off road as ‘Fat Tire’ or ‘Off-Road’ biking, as mention of ‘Mountain Biking’ in topographically-challenged Florida usually draws a snigger. But even when riding across our flat landscape off of paved roads, you need regular cruising tires or, better still, ‘fat tires’ because of sand, mud, and ruts.

I happen to like wilderness biking, because I cover greater distances than walking even if I bike in as far as possible, then hide my bike and start hiking. Plus, a bike carries your kit. This is especially handy in the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park where bikers are welcome, with trails suitable for all riders.

Except for Janes Scenic Drive, itself a rough dirt road, the trails marked on the Park map require caution and riders should be observant for anything that could cause injury. Remember at 7-10 mph you approach a hazard much faster than walking. Show courtesy to hikers and be sure to dismount and stand aside to allow a rarely-seen vehicle to pass. These will usually be an ATV ridden by officials or the few ‘inholders’ occupying camps in the park.

Hazards include:

  • Cypress ‘nubs’ or short stumps that may be hidden in the grass between or on the double track. Watch carefully as you cross from one side to the other.
  • Low hanging branches and vines, some of which may have thorns. Wear helmet, eye protection and gloves.
  • Alligators may pull themselves up on to the trail to sun themselves. If you see one ahead, approach to no closer than 20 feet and make a noise, wave your arms, stamp your feet. If it refuses to move, turn back.
  • The Water Moccasin or Cotton Mouth snake is a venomous, semi-aquatic pit viper. Slow to bite, it sometimes is found resting on or alongside the trail where water is present nearby. It can grow to almost 3 feet; you don’t want to ride over it! It’s head is distinct from the neck, and it has faint markings which vary in color and are sometimes hidden under a muddy exterior. It blends in well with its surroundings. If you see a black or dark gray snake coiled or stationary, keep at least 3 feet away. Harmless grass and water snakes move out of your way fast.
  • Except for palms, avoid riding over small branches and fallen vines as they may be armed with thorns which will puncture tires. I recommend inserting plastic tire liners on the inside of tires between the tube and outer cover, found at any bike shop or on the internet. They stop penetrations through the tread but not the sidewall.

Fakahatchee Strand State Park mapFinding your way when biking or hiking:
Janes Scenic Drive, West Main, East Main, Mud Tram and Jones Grade hiking trails are easily navigated as long as you keep on the trail. But if you visit the Uplands Trail ,or leave these trails to connect with others, it is essential you carry at minimum a reliable compass. If possible, a GPS unit downloaded with a topo map is best.

Even if carrying a compass to confirm direction, you will encounter off-shoot side trails made by ATV’s, driven by fire and official personnel during the year. While following what appears to be the main trail, consisting of double tracks across a grassy prairie, you will encounter the occasional old or new trail forking off, which may look more prominent because it was recently driven over. A check on your GPS screen will verify your position and direction.

Tony Marx is a Florida Master Naturalist and former Board Member.

Lost and Found in Cuba, Part 5

by Dennis Giardina

We walked down the same orchid-laden aisle of the greenhouse that we had walked down in October of 2012. To our great surprise and delight we were greeted by a colony of Bulbophyllum pachyrhachis, rat-tail orchids in full bloom, one of them bearing a swelling seed capsule! I don’t know about Mike but I couldn’t believe my eyes. No, I do know about Mike because I was standing right next to him. There were no “Touchdowns!” or any other excited exclamations. Our loquacious Park Biologist Mike Owen was speechless and so was I. I pounded his shoulder a couple of times as if to say, “Mike, can you believe this!”

The view from Rolando’s office above Soroa Botanical Garden

The view from Rolando’s office above Soroa Botanical Garden

We started to take pictures and then Dr. Rolando Perez, our host and the Director of Science of Soroa Botanical Garden, signaled to us to follow him. We did and what he showed us blew us away. There, dangling from a chunk of wood was Epidendrum acunae. In the space of about three and half minutes, we found both of Fakahatchee’s lost orchids! Mike and I attended the Orchid Restoration Conference, hoping only to tell the Cubans about our desire to find the lost orchids. Neither one of us expected to actually do it!

I went back to the Orquideario in May of 2013. I was very cryptic in my E-mail correspondence with Rolando during the intervening months. Although I never reminded him specifically to do so, I thought I made it abundantly clear to him before I left that I was coming back to collect that rat-tail seed capsule. I should have just asked him for it when we were there in October because I know he would have given it to me, but I erred on the side of caution. Ultimately, he did not remember to collect my seed capsule and the tiny, shriveled up seed pod that I did bring back with me, did not contain any viable seeds.

Leading up to this trip, I kept my expectations very low. Good thing, because even though it was a few weeks later than when we were there the previous year, when we reached the group of rat-tail orchids, the one or two that were in flower did not have any seed capsules. We eventually made our way around the corner to inspect the Epidendrum  acuane  and  we  couldn’t  find  it.  We spent an hour looking around the main greenhouse, then we searched several others and we never did find it. Rolando assured me that his daughter Yunelis would know where it was but for the moment, at least, this orchid was lost in Cuba as well!

Macradenia lutescens flower

Macradenia lutescens flower

During our search for the missing Epidendrum acuane, we came across two other notable species, Macradenia lutescens and Brassia caudata, Florida’s East Coast lost orchids. These two species were documented in the early part of the 20th  Century, growing in a few of the larger tropical hammocks in the Eastern Everglades in Miami-Dade County. Soon thereafter they were over collected and by 1970’s, they were gone.

Brassia caudata

Brassia caudata

The Brassia caudata was in flower. Its flowers are borne on a long spike. The tips of the sepals and petals extend into thin, trailing appendages that give them a distinctive, spidery appearance. Brassia must also mimic the scent of spider, because it has been observed in Florida to be pollinated by the tarantula hawk wasp. Many orchids have developed complex relationships with their pollinators, intimating an “awareness” that would seem beyond the ability of sightless, mindless plants. Some orchid flowers mimic the form and scent of a receptive female insect and are pollinated by the repeated probing of an excited male of the same species in a manner called “pseudo copulation.”

Brassia caudata closeup

Brassia caudata closeup

Brassia’s spider shape and smell deceive the big wasp into attacking the flowers, grabbing and trying to sting them, in the process transferring  pollen from one flower to another in a manner called “pseudo depredation.” Macradenia lutescens is a small epiphytic orchid that has a long, cascading flower spike that supports a dozen or more multi-colored flowers that are somewhat variable in color but always quite lovely.

On our way out the greenhouse door, I noticed that one of the Macradenia orchids had a nice, unopened yet quite ripe, seed capsule. I was focused on the Fakahatchee lost orchids but our broader plan has always been to bring back the Everglades lost orchids as well. So, even though I imagined that those two species would come later, I felt that life was offering me a gift and it would be in bad taste not to accept it. We promptly snipped it off and I nestled it in the pocket of my camera case.

Macradenia lutescens seedpod

Macradenia lutescens seedpod

When I got home, I took out the seed capsule and examined it. It was still green and seemingly as tough as a super ball. I remember thinking that I could whip it against a wall or the floor and nothing would happen to it. Surely it could take the jostling of the mail bags and boxes that I imagined it would be subjected to by the US Postal Service. I wrapped the seed capsule in an envelope and then put that folded wad into another envelope addressed to Matt Richards at Atlanta Botanical Garden. A few days later I got an E-mail from Matt saying,

I  got  the  seed  pod;  unfortunately  it  went  through  the ‘smasher’  at  the  post  office.  I  will  attempt  to  salvage something but it doesn’t look too good at this point. Sorry for the sad update.

I had no idea that my letter would go through the metal rollers of the mail sorting machine. If I had, I would have put it in a box. I felt so stupid, then depressed for a week.

Mike and I have been joking that this project, and our desire to bring back Fakahatchee’s lost orchids, is a “Quixotic quest,” and that may be so. We couldn’t have picked a less accessible country in the world in which to find anything, except maybe North Korea. Somehow I have been slipping through a worm hole in the U.S. – Cuba cold war continuum, but it’s anyone’s guess how long it will remain open. Now as I prepare for my fourth trip to Cuba, a place that only a few short years ago I didn’t even think possible to visit, I have done everything possible to ensure that there will be seeds of the lost orchids waiting for me. It has been said that fortune favors the bold, but it has also been said that no good deed goes unpunished. Stay tuned…

Dennis Giardina is the Everglades Region Biologist for the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission and was formerly the Park Manager of Fakahatchee Strand Preserve.

Flying Rodents They’re Not

by Patrick Higgins

It was dark. Glen Stacell and I were rolling slowly down Janes Scenic Drive with lights dimmed in his pick-up truck. There was just the soft crunch of tires on gravel. The silhouettes of cabbage palms and cypress contrasted against the evening sky.  Each of us had an arm out a side window holding a small black device aloft listening for clicks.  We were reconnoitering our upcoming new moonlit tram tours and searching for some of Fakahatchee’s bats.

Eastern pipistrelle, Fakahatchee's smallest bat. Photo by Dr. J. Scott Altenbach

Eastern pipistrelle, Fakahatchee’s smallest bat. Photo by Dr. J. Scott Altenbach

Eight of Florida’s 13 species of bat frequent the Fakahatchee; the Seminole bat (Lasiurus seminolus), Big brown bat  (Eptesicus fuscus), Brazilian free-tailed bat (Tadarida brasiliensis), Evening bat (Nycticeius humeralis), Eastern pipistrelle or Tricolored bat (Pipistrellus subflavus), Northern yellow bat (Lasiurus intermedius), Rafinesque’s big-eared bat (Corynorhinus rafinesquii)  and the endangered Florida bonneted bat (Eumops floridanus).

The Seminole bat, Northern yellow and pipistrelle are solitary roosters utilizing clumps of Spanish moss, dried palm fronds and old tree cavities.  The others are colonial roosters. The Brazilian free-tail and Big-eared have now adapted to man-made structures.  The Brazilian likes bridges and picnic shelters, and is particularly partial to the crevices under barrel tile roofs, a penchant shared with bonneted bats. The Big-eared strays less far from its preferred forest habitat and is more likely to use old cabins and sheds. The evening bat is less picky and sometimes found in the folds of patio umbrellas.  All are slow reproducers with typically a single pup born each spring.

Like all bats they are the subjects of many misconceptions, even being referred to as flying rodents. Bats are in fact in an order all of their own, Chiroptera, from the Greek aptly meaning hand-wing, and may be closer related to primates than rodents.

They are a diverse group accounting for almost 20% of all known mammal species and can be divided into two suborders; the megabats or flying foxes of the old-world tropics, sometimes referred to as fruit bats, and the ubiquitous microbats which include all of Florida’s species.

Our bats are small; ranging from our smallest, the Eastern pipistrelle with a 9” wingspan but weighing in at a mere ¼ oz, to our largest, the Florida bonneted bat with a 20” wingspan but, still only about 1 ¼ oz weight. Despite their diminutive body mass bats are extraordinarily long-lived. Some bats weighing less than an ounce have lifespans of 30 years.

Flying foxes in particular put paid to the myth ‘as blind as a bat’. They have excellent binocular 3D color vision.  But even the smaller eyes of our microbats have highly refractive lens and are densely packed with rods. They have good night vision, but nobody goes around saying, “as sharp as a bat’s eyes at night.”  Microbat eyesight is however made largely redundant by their ability to echolocate: to use reflected sound waves to map their environment in the same manner as dolphins.  This remarkable sixth sense allows them to determine distance, size, shape, texture, speed and direction.

Not only are bats not the harbingers of evil portrayed in horror films, they are highly beneficial, providing many important ecosystem services. Not least of these in Florida is that our species are all insectivorous typically consuming their own body weight in insects every night.  Depending on the size of the bat and size of the insect this can total several thousand ‘bugs’, many of which may be agricultural pests.  In other parts of the world they provide pollination services as well.

As Glen and I proceeded, our scanners periodically rippled to life, with the distinctive slower pulses of bats in the search mode, followed by increasingly frantic chirps as they closed on their targets, culminating in a feeding buzz which ends abruptly when the insect is scooped by wing or tail membrane into its mouth.  Occasionally we also picked up insect noise when it intruded into the bats’ frequency range, but this was a like a low muffled roar and easily distinguishable.

We think of nocturnal predators as being quiet, but bats are noisy, broadcasting at 110-120 decibels, which is the same level as standing next to a jackhammer. So it’s a good thing that most of their calls are ultrasonic and well above 20 kHz, the upper limit of human hearing.  It makes perfect sense being so loud if you’re trying to resolve a moving object as small as a mosquito.

Our Swiss bat detectors are only the size of cigarette packs but quite sophisticated, as well as quite expensive, although I won’t say quite how much in case my wife reads this.  They automatically scan the full chiropteran echolocation frequency range, which varies by species. They then transform the chirp into our audible range, modulate its volume, and display its frequency. This provides a clue to identification, but only a clue as the call ranges of many bats overlap.  However, armed with this and the knowledge of what bats are likely to be found in any given area, one can make a pretty good guess.  Even more sophisticated bat scanners can record wave patterns that can be downloaded onto a computer for analysis and positive identification.

But this aerial combat is not all one sided.  Many insects can detect the bats signals and take evasive actions or apply countermeasures.  Some moths will fold their wings and suddenly drop to the ground. Tiger moths take a different tack. Their larvae feed on toxic plants that make them taste nasty so they emit a series of clicks to warn off an approaching bat.

Earlier in the day Glen had a sugared a few trees along our route with a homemade concoction of rum, molasses and brown sugar.  I would rather have drunk it, but he painted it on several trunks in the hope of attracting moths. The idea was to see what the bats might be feeding on.  It worked well up north, but we didn’t have any luck with it that night, so will revert to the time-honored tradition of a white sheet and backlight for our tours. We had better success with the fireflies and were able to attract a few towards us using a keychain LED flashlight, but you have to get the flash pattern just right for the particular species.  We look forward to sharing our new skills with our moonlight tram riders and boardwalk-after-dark strollers.

Swamp Walks in the Fakahatchee

Excerpt of article by Susan Cocking
The Miami Herald – December 31, 2012

Naturalist Glen Stacell, center with cap, leads another group of swamp walkers out of the water and on to Janes Scenic Drive for the tram ride back to park headquarters.

Naturalist Glen Stacell, center with cap, leads another group of swamp walkers out of the water and on to Janes Scenic Drive for the tram ride back to park headquarters.

Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park: If you have read Susan Orlean’s book, “The Ghost Orchid,” or watched the movie, “Adaptation,” based on the book, then you will want to join this wet hike into the region dubbed the “Amazon of North America.” Members of the park’s non-profit booster group Friends of Fakahatchee will lead you into a cool wetland shaded by royal palm and bald cypress that holds more native orchid and bromeliad species than anywhere in the U.S. You probably will see a gator or two, and if you are lucky, maybe a black bear or otter.

For more information see our Events Calendar.

Day Hiking in the Fakahatchee

Excerpt of article by Susan Cocking
The Miami Herald – November 14, 2012

From open prairie to shaded wetland, natural beauty abounds at Fakahatchee.

From open prairie to shaded wetland, natural beauty abounds at Fakahatchee.

The Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park: Florida’s largest (but maybe least-known) state park offers numerous day hiking opportunities, ranging from a 2,000- foot boardwalk to hip-deep swamp slogs. The breadth of flora and fauna you might encounter is almost incalculable: not only is the 75,000-acre Fakahatchee the orchid and bromeliad capital of the world; it is also home to black bear and some rare wildlife species, including the Everglades mink and Eastern indigo snake.

Less adventurous hikers can see gators, a bald eagle nest and numerous kinds of birds from the safety of the Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk on the north side of U.S. 41 seven miles west of S.R. 29. But heading out on your own off the Janes Memorial Scenic Drive off S.R. 29 near Copeland is a lot more exciting. That’s where you are most likely to see up close some 44 species of native orchids (plus a few exotics that landed here from Africa) and 14 native bromeliads. Follow numerous tramways intersecting the Janes that stay high and dry all year long, or wade out into the swamp shaded by a canopy of bald cypress and royal palm. Hikers have reported spotting bear, otter, deer and gators in a single day trip.

Night Ramblings

Night Ramblings
by Patrick Higgins

 View of South Oxfordshire from atop the Chilterns at Watlington Hill. Photo by Patrick Higgins

View of South Oxfordshire from atop the Chilterns at Watlington Hill. Photo by Patrick Higgins

Late July found me stumbling down a sunken way with Martha in the pitch dark of a moonless night. Our rough path was hemmed in by ancient yew and beech trees. We were in the Chiltern Hills of South Oxfordshire – an area designated as being of Outstanding Natural Beauty, a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Area of Conservation about 15 minutes from our son’s house in Watlington where we were staying.  The broad bottomed ditch we were negotiating dated back to Saxon times.  In the darkness with the clinking of key chains and water bottles one could almost hear “the tramp of Saxon foemen, Saxon spearmen, Saxon bowmen” although more commonly this path would have been trampled by generations of Saxon farmers taking their animals to market; merchants with their wares travelling between settlements and woodsmen hauling timber and charcoal.

Further down, the sunken way was bisected by an old Roman road, now resurfaced and travelled by cars. For some unknown reason the Roman routes are always straighter than most of our modern English highways. Behind me, back up the hill, our ditch led to the Ridgeway, Britain’s oldest byway dating back over 5,000 years, which stretched from the Norfolk coast to that of Dorset, linking up Neolithic sites like Stonehenge and Avebury.  It’s hard to escape history in England, but we were in search of the glow worm (Lampyris noctiluca), cousins to Fakahatchee’s fireflies in Aston Rowant National Nature Reserve.  However, in the dark my mind kept wandering to the Fakahatchee because I had to give a talk locally on the Everglades Ecosystem and was also planning some new night-time interpretive programs for the upcoming season back in Florida.

The Reserve is a mosaic of chalk grassland, beech woodland and Juniper scrub sitting atop 300 feet of chalk, formed 350 million years ago from the compressed calcite shells of microscopic Foraminifera that lived in the warm, shallow seas that once covered southern Britain.  Chalk grassland is a unique and fragile habitat, important for both its beauty and wildlife value. It is the product of centuries of grazing by animals on nutrient poor chalk soils and is characterized by a short turf rich in herbs, flowers, butterflies and grasses, and like the Fakahatchee also in orchids, although here they are all terrestrial.

Comparisons between the ecosystems continued to flood my thoughts as we bumped along. In one we employ prescribed burns to maintain the habitat. Here, it’s the grazing of a large flock of speckle-faced sheep and a few Dartmoor ponies that controls the spread of young scrub and keeps chalk grassland healthy.

Aston Rowant, at only some the 500 acres, is a classic example of the threat to biodiversity through islandization and habitat fragmentation. Especially as even this small, precious parcel is sliced into two by a massive cut for the six lane M40 motorway from London to Oxford which paralleled our route just over the rise. It was further affirmation why the Fakahatchee is important; not just because of its unique plant communities, but also as Florida’s largest State Park because of its scale. When it comes to maintaining biodiversity, size does matter!

Back in Florida swallow-tailed kites would just be beginning to assemble for their annual 4,500 mile return migration to South America. Here there were Red kites (Milvus milvus).  They had been reduced to just a handful of pairs in Wales through past persecution. It was mistakenly believed that they were a threat to gamebirds and livestock, but recently they have made a remarkable comeback. Through a reintroduction program using chicks taken from northern Spain there are now some 250 breeding pairs in the Chilterns.   With a 5 ½ foot wingspan Red kites are a much larger bird than our swallow-tail, weighing 2 – 3 pounds versus 10–20 ounces and their ecological role is different too. Rather than being canopy feeders they are primarily carrion feeders, filling the role of vultures, although they will take small mammals too if caught in the open. The locals who once persecuted them now throw the bones from their Sunday joints out on to the lawn to watch them swoop in, a practice sadly that does not encourage the kites’ dispersal into new territory.

Field of yellow meadow ant mounds. Photo by Phil Champion

Field of yellow meadow ant mounds. Photo by Phil Champion

In Florida the instant we step off the road we are on the alert for fire ant nests.  Here there is an unseen benevolent ant, the Yellow meadow ant (Lasius flavus). The chalk grassland and other undisturbed ancient pasture areas are dotted with myriads of small grassy domes that look almost like neatly planted helmets. These are actually ant-hills, some over a hundred years old. Inside of each is a colony of up to 5,000 meadow ants that feed the by farming the sap sucking aphids that live on the roots of the surrounding forbs and grasses.  The ants milk the greenfly for honeydew which they carry back to their colony and in the winter will eat the aphids themselves. Their subterranean activities control damaging insects, open up the soil keeping it porous and their droppings fertilize the grasses’ roots. They also have a curious relationship with the Chalkhill blue butterfly (Polyommatus coridon). Attracted by secretions they will bury the pupa, unintentionally protecting it from predators.

Wingless female glow worm (Lampyris noctiluca). Photo by Barry Crowley

Wingless female glow worm (Lampyris noctiluca). Photo by Barry Crowley

After about 45 minutes bumbling about we finally detected the steady green glow of our target, a glow worm.  It was about a foot off the track, naturally in completely the wrong spot deep in the woodland.  Glow worms of course are not a worms at all but a bioluminescent beetle just like our related firefly.  In their larval stage they are predatory and hunt snails, which why calciferous habitats that favour snails like chalk grasslands are preferred. As adults they rarely feed.
In the glow worm’s case it is only the inch long wingless female that glows significantly.  She had climbed up a dried grass stem about 12 inches above the ground then curled her abdomen slightly upward to display the last few segments of her abdomen where her glowing organs are located in hope of attracting a passing male.  Unlike American fireflies she can’t readily turn her glow on and off – it’s rather like a very slow starting fluorescent tube, which takes about 20 minutes to cycle so they don’t flash.  Misplaced deep in the woods she would be very lucky to have any success.  As well as attracting a mate, the glowing abdomen is a warning to predators to stay away – bioluminescent chemicals taste bad.

Nevertheless, hers is a very efficient light source. Unlike incandescent light bulbs that only, transform about 3% of the energy used into light, bioluminescence is generally 90 to 98% efficient.  The light is produced by a reaction between calcium, luciferin and ATP in the presence of the catalyst luciferase and oxygen, using nitric oxide as a chemical on/off oxygen valve. It is the switching on and off of the oxygen flow which allows American fireflies to flash.  Specific flash patterns are used to identify other members of their species, as well as members of the opposite sex and even. In the case of some Photuris fireflies, it is to mimic the light signals of other firefly species to lure, kill, and eat them.  Studies of America’s most common Photinus species show that females are more attracted to males that flash longer and faster. A flash can bring either sex or death!  We shall be trying a bit of mimicry ourselves on our moonlight tram rides down Jane’s Scenic Drive this season to see if we can attract any eager males.  It’s just a case of getting the response timing right.

Anyways, that solitary glow worm by the trail was the only one we saw that night.  We scoured the open grassland to no avail.  I guess we missed the peak by about a week, but even then observers were only seeing a dozen specimens a night on this site. Light pollution as well as habitat loss is taking a toll on these interesting insects.  We’re pretty lucky in the Fakahatchee.

What is a Snag?

by Sam Peters

snagbypetermcclure4webThere is some debate about what constitutes a Snag, Is it a dead tree? Is it on the ground? Is it in the water? Is it a loose thread? The Urban Dictionary defines snags as a “sensitive new age guy.” So, there are many definitions … For our purposes, a Snag is a standing dead or dying tree.

A Downed Tree is a log lying on or near a forest floor; however, a downed tree in a body of water is called a snag in certain areas of the South and Midwest. In Alaskan rivers it can be called a preacher. Other areas it is called a sawyer. Both sawyer and preacher derive from the tree or log rising and falling and bowing in a current of a river.

To some people, Snags are ugly and should be removed from a forest. After all, they are not classic, formal beauty; they’re dead. However, trees are the gift that keeps on giving. As they grow, they provide habitat and shelter for many different species; when they die, they still provide shelter and habitat, but now for different animals. Depending on the species of tree, it can last for as long as 70 years. They start out as Hard Snags, which means that they still have the bark and their cambium layer; as they lose their bark and decay further, they become Soft Snags. This is when the most animals begin to move in.

Some of the birds which use Snags are woodpeckers, wrens, barred owl, vultures and hawks. Also many insects, reptiles and amphibians call a dead tree home.

As the tree ages, different animals make use of it. For instance, woodpeckers will make use of an area of a snag and when the woodpeckers move on, other birds will enlarge the holes and move in. As they move on, more birds or other animals will make use of the cavity. This can go on until the cavity becomes large enough to house a squirrel, or a raccoon nest.

Some fungi, moss, and lichen live their entire lives on dead trees. Bacteria live in decaying wood, creating fertilizer which will mix with the soil when the tree falls. Shelf mushrooms make use of Snags and Downed Trees. Snags provide food and habitat for almost 1/3 of our wildlife. Over forty different types of birds use Snags at one time or another.

Snags should be protected and left standing for reasons of habitat and forest health. They are used for foraging, nesting, perching, hunting and roosting.

We need Snags to be maintained in a variety of sizes, shapes and ages. A group of larger Snags is more valuable as it provides habitat for a greater variety of species. Small clumps of snags will provide nesting and foraging sites. Snags should exist in various stages of decay, as they support different plants and animals at different stages of their existence. So, different stages for diverse species and different sizes and shapes for the same reason.

A single large Snag is rarely used by more than one pair of the same species.

Forest management now includes Snags. This would include not cutting down dead trees and culling trees in a crowded area, but leaving them standing and creating new Snags. Fire may also be used as fire can both create new Snags and destroy old ones.

What can we do? Depending on where we live, we can maintain Snags and/or create new ones. Please don’t use fire in your neighborhood. However, if a tree dies, leave it alone if it is not a danger to anything or cut it to a size where it will not hurt anything if it falls. You may also kill an unwanted tree yet leave it standing. Some of the ways to kill it would be to gird the tree, top and trim it and of course poison always works. Girding does weaken the tree and if done will rot the tree from the outside in. This will cause the tree to rot and fall much more quickly than when it dies and rots from the inside out, which is the natural way.

The Fakahatchee has many Snags in various states of decay. They occur naturally and are of great service to the forest community. If you look closely, you can see that the Snag is occupied by many animals and if you look twice you may even come to believe that they are beautiful in their own natural way.

Sam Peters is an FOF member from Miami Beach.

The Wetland Neighbors

by Anthony (Tony) Marx

Aerial  photo   of  the  “south blocks”  in the  Picayune by Marya Repko taken several years ago.

Aerial photo of the “south blocks” in the Picayune by Marya Repko taken several years ago.

Once considered as useless and a noxious, snake and insect infested source of fevers which must be drained and developed, half of the wetlands that existed at Florida Statehood have been destroyed. However Collier County is blessed with over 72% of its land acreage designated as conservation land – more than twice that of neighboring counties.

There is a stark difference between the 85,000-acre Fakahatchee State Preserve and the adjoining Picayune State Forest, which at 78,000 acres is almost as large. The Fakahatchee is a vibrant, natural world pulsating with life and home to a huge variety of rare plant life and endangered animals; whereas the Picayune, once also a similar wetland, was logged, cleared and partially developed, then abandoned. This transformed it into a dry landscape with upland trees and vegetation. Non-native vegetation including Brazilian Pepper, always present when land is disturbed, also moved in. Over two hundred miles of elevated roads acted as levies to further stop natural water flow between the canals. The difference is most noticeable when you access the Picayune State Forest through its back entrance at the end of Janes Scenic Drive in the Fakahatchee State Park. Outdated maps show a grid of streets which are mostly non-existent. The massive Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan (CERP) is changing the landscape in every respect. The bridge, on entering over the former Prairie has gone and the canal plugged, so it is now a series of small ponds.

Photo of equipment filling in a canal by Dennis Giardina.

Photo of equipment filling in a canal by Dennis Giardina.

Heading west, the partial dirt and paved road still shown on maps as Stewart has been leveled flat with the surrounding landscape, and on either side large swathes of scrub have been bulldozed clear of all vegetation and leveled to start sheet water flowing. Progress is occasionally blocked at the next canal bridge, but if you can proceed you’ll find that the formerly paved Everglades Boulevard section leading to Naples has also had its surface removed and the last time I was there it was gated closed. Heavy equipment is seen working here and there, bulldozing and trucking away debris. Close to I-75 instead of water flowing south down canals to the estuaries, the new and powerful pumping stations under construction will send water flowing fanlike south through spreader channels in an east-west direction while the remaining three canals running north to south will be plugged to varying degrees.

Boulevard in the Picayune taken by Tony Marx in 2011.

Boulevard in the Picayune taken by Tony Marx in 2011.

If you plan to try and reach Naples from the Picayune be prepared to turn back, as the road may be blocked by either a closed gate or sheet water in summer. In time it will return to a wetland environment and the interior will be mostly be inaccessible to vehicles. The full transformation will take several decades but soon the Fakahatchee will benefit from the additional water flowing southeast.

Tony Marx is a Florida Master Naturalist and a Board Member of Friends of Fakahatchee. He was one of the speakers at our Annual Dinner on April 13.

Boardwalk Vision Report – May, 2014

by Tom Maish, Chair of the Vision Committee

The Friends of Fakahatchee are proud to announce that we are now offering familiarization tours for local and state decision makers. The goal is to invite these community leaders to the park where they will be given a personalized tour of the Fakahatchee Strand. Collier County Commissioner Donna Fiala became our first public official to experience a Ghost Rider Tram Tour into the Fakahatchee. Glen Stacell lead the trip and it was very well received. Mrs Fiala next traveled to old US41, site of our Boardwalk Vision, to see the “picture window” into the Fakahatchee Strand. Commissioner Fiala was so taken that she wrote a glowing article about the beauty of the Fakahatchee which appeared in the Marco and Naples newspapers after her visit in mid- April. What a great first step!

On April 23rd the Boardwalk Vision committee listened to a presentation on the benefits of hiring an Interpretative Master Planner to complete planning of graphics and displays for the Boardwalk Vision site. Board member Patrick Higgins had been a student of Kris Whipple, National Association for Interpretation (NAI) Certified Interpretative Trainer, and asked Kris to explain the reasons, benefits, and process of using Interpretative Master Planners. A Master Interpretative Plan will tie together all the individual pieces of our vision that the Friends have been formulating. Kris gave such a compelling presentation on what the Friends could expect from proper planning that committee members Jimene Rinehart and John Kaiser offered to fund the consulting fee to prepare a scope of work and pursue Requests For Proposals (RFP) for our project. This request to send out RFPs will now be presented to the FOF Board for approval. Sending out RFPs, reviewing the responses, and selecting a planning firm will take several months. Then the actual planning process may take an additional 6 to 12 months. With this completed plan, our Boardwalk Vision will be ready to reveal to the public.